Remember Mamasita, the Mexican restaurant in Melbourne that made no-bookings policies cool and can still generate a queue in its stairwell? Hotel Jesus, pronounced ‘hey-Zeus’, is its trendier, snackier little cousin. Set in the old Collingwood Post Office, cerveza light boxes and religious symbols add a splash of neon to white walls. People watching and margarita-sipping is best executed from the plastic-covered tables outside. To order, tick the boxes on the paper menu – perhaps corn concealed beneath a blanket of thick black mayonnaise, or raw tuna tostadas with wasabi peas and grilled cheese ‘volcanes’ with traditional toppings.